Berlin Misadventures - Day 3 - Masonry, Memory and Manic Punk Revelry by Candlelight.

Today, I partied in the non-alcoholic sense of the word.  I visited a lot of places and got a greater understanding of Berlin and indeed, of Germany.

I began this morning raring to use the transport system to reduce my footfall (I still walked miles but hey, my body needs the exercise).  I found it as awkward as the London Underground system yet also paradoxically as useful once I got the swing of it.

I visited Brecht's house (Brecht-Weigel Gedenstatte) as it opened at 10 am.  I was initially the Guide's sole visitor and she kindly gave me an English account of Brecht and his wife.  It's fascinating to inhabit the spaces of creative people.  Brecht used one floor and had two exits, which enabled him to disappear if he wanted to avoid people (Exit stage left).  Also he possessed a number of desks and tables, which facilitated his creativity.  Movement apparently stimulated his concentration, so he would go from table to desk as he felt like it.  His wife, Helene Weigel was also a fascinating character, although as the Guide explained she ended up with about three jobs when Brecht died at the relatively young age of 58.  They were both chain smokers.

Sign pointing to Brecht's House. 

 

Oh yes, prior to going to Brecht's house, I went to the cemetery next door (Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof) where Brecht is buried with his wife.  I missed his grave the first time and returned after my trip next door.  The cemetery was a wonderful example of a 'celebrity graveyard'.  Also rich with iconography and some of the biggest family tombs I have ever seen.  Some cad had perhaps ironically chucked Euros on Brecht's grave.  I also began the mystery which I still haven't solved concerning who 'Claudine' was as her tombstone was quite frankly, the most unusual memorials I have ever seen.  Was she an actor?

Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel-Brecht's graves.

 

Coinage on the area in front of Brecht's grave.

 

Understated family tomb.

 

Fungal growth on a grave.  Beauty comes in many forms.

 

The identity of 'Claudine' is driving me nuts.  She is wearing a mask.  So perhaps, she was an actor?

 

After the cemetery, I negotiated my way to the KW Institute for Contemporary Art, only to discover it was closed until next week when the new exhibition was due to start.  A curious comment had been written on the wall that led into the courtyard where the art venue was, which I photographed.  Something about being a 'good neighbour'.

 

                                      Ah, the joys of cryptic yet profound inscriptions!

Being the music fan I am, I negotiated my way to the Ramones' Museum by foot only to find it closed for another twenty minutes.  As such, I found a park and was moved by a lone trumpet player in a viaduct.  His music encapsulated an overcast late morning in Berlin.  Also I continue to be overwhelmed by the blasé little birds scrounging in packs for food.  In London, their equivalent cousins would come under the category of 'neurotic', escaping from the company of humans.  These little charmers are practically asking, 'Do you want your shoes polished?'

 

Lone musician playing melancholic tunes for yearning hearts.

 

Cute little bird.  Unusually, on its own.  Normally, they came with an entourage.

 

 

Back to the Ramones' Museum, where I was offered a ticket and a drink, which you were allowed to carry around the exhibition.  Whether or not, you like the Ramones, you have to respect the care and attention that has gone into this exhibition.  Concert posters, set lists and photographs adorn the walls, many signed and the visitor is provided with a good overview of a band who continued touring until most of the band had died.  The fact that the Ramones' Museum was essentially just half of a pretty busy pub made me respect it even more.

 

By this point, my body wanted to collapse, so I pushed it on...  I attended the Deutsches Historiches Museum, which should be shortlisted as one of the best museums in Europe.  I could have spent all day there.  It offered an objective overview of German history, whilst exploring issues of gender, culture and politics.  The Deutsches Historiches Museum was so involving, it was hard not to feel exhausted and emotional by the time I reached the section on the Holocaust and the concentration camps.

 

Wonderful museum

 

 

From there, I headed to Checkpoint Charlie and the Mauermuseum...  Checkpoint Charlie was one of the checkpoints in the Berlin Wall and serves to symbolically illustrate how much Berlin has grown since the political schisms between the various countries were thrown aside.

 

Uncle Sam's favourite restaurant right next to Checkpoint Charlie.

 

Checkpoint Charlie.

 

Checkpoint Charlie.  Something about the checkpoint disturbs me.  I blame the Coke sign and McDonald's.

 

 

The Mauermuseum in contrast to the other museum was too wordy.  Huge lumps of text covered the walls.  It really only improved when you went upstairs and gained an insight into the lives of human beings and their attempts (some successful) to escape to the other side of the Berlin Wall.  One woman was concealed in a loudspeaker and that's not counting the tunnelling exploits aided and abetted by a number of philanthropic individuals. 

 

Even the sign reads like a restaurant menu!  Less is sometimes more.

 

Section of the Berlin Wall.  I would imagine that in its complete form,  it was a work of art as relevant as the Bayeux Tapestry.  As it stands, it's like looking at lots of little paintings in the largest gallery possible, The World.  The Berlin Wall is everywhere.  I even purchased a bookmark which purportedly contained a chunk of wall.

 

Once I finished in the museum, I decided to get something to eat.  I am currently stuffed and also in awe of the tipping system.  You physically give the tip to the waiter and they put it in their purse/wallet.  This allows a personal approach to what has always seemed a rather dehumanising process.  This way you are personally commending someone for their help, attention and affinity.  Everyone wins!

 

I feel exhausted now, but I also know that I can achieve anything I want when I give myself the benefit of the doubt.  You are an okay guy, Barry Watt.

 

                                                                       Barry Watt - 11th September 2013.